Advice On Buying A Lotus Seven or Caterham 7
So you are looking to buy a Lotus Seven or Caterham 7 but don't know where to start?
So what is a Seven or 7?
A Seven is a lightweight sports car designed by Lotus founder Colin Chapman and there were four versions. The most popular variant is the Series 3 and this is the version that Caterham Cars produce in a much updated format. Although you will see the direct lineage from the original car. The Last version that Lotus produced was the Series 4 which was a much squarer in its appearance to the rounded edges of the Series 3. There are a number of other companies that produce 'Seven' type cars of varying build qualities, but if you want a true descendant of the historic Lotus Seven you really need to be looking at a Caterham 7.
The first things you need to think of is what you plan on doing with your car when you have one and what your budget is. If you plan on doing Trackdays, Touring or just having a little fun, this will alter what type of Seven would be most suited to your requirements. The age of a car and if you want historic authenticity will also have a big effect on what you buy. To the untrained eye most Caterham 7's and Lotus Seven's will all look similar. Picking the spec of your new car can be a mind boggling affair until you know what you are looking for. In this section of the website I will give you some advice on how to get the best information and guide you through all the different options. So when you are looking at adverts and people are listing different items you will have an idea of if these items are of interest to you.
Budgets are also important. You can buy a second hand Caterham 7 for as little as £ 7,000.00 and you can also spend almost £50,000.00 on a brand new top of the range Caterham 7 fully loaded with every performance extra you would ever want. However, to have fun in a Caterham can be achieved at a moderate price.
Once you have a budget in mind you might find that you could be limited in your choice of Sevens, so set your budget first and then work out what is in your price range.
So what Seven do you want?
I would suggest that we break this into three sections: Historic, Road/Touring, Performance/Track/Race. You also need to take into account your height, size and the proportions of your physical make up with certain versions of the Seven. A Seven is famous for breaking all the rules, so just because I am splitting options into three sections, you can always break the rules and place a car from one section and use it in another.
If the dream is for a truly Historic Seven then you really should be looking at an original Lotus 7 designed by the Lotus Founder Colin Chapman. However, original Lotus 7's can command a high price and don't come up for sale all that often. I would suggest that you start with a budget of around £ 20,000 or more. Although the Series 4 cars are often cheaper. Original Lotus Sevens have a very short cockpit and a lot of people have difficulty in being able to drive them comfortably. If you are 6ft you will really struggle to get into an original Seven.You might therefore have to have a longer cockpit Caterham 7. All Caterham 7 variants are based on the Lotus Seven Series 3.
A good road going Caterham 7 can come in lots of different specifications and also have a wide variety of power outputs. Again depending on your size there is a lot of options. You can get an old Ford X-flow powered Caterham in need of attention for around £ 7,000 or buy the fastest track orientated Caterham 7 that could cost you almost £ 50,000.00. I would say that you would more than likely get frustrated with all that power and very rarely being able to have the opportunity to use it on a public road. This is not to say that you cannot tour in such an extreme variant because I know people who do. But for the purpose of forming a clear picture in your head I will focus on what I would call a Touring Caterham 7. Don't worry this does not mean it is a slow car and you can't have any fun. A most basic Caterham with lower end power can still be remarkably quick if driven correctly. You also need to remember that even a road going touring Caterham can be very quick on a track and should never be underestimated.
For touring you want to build in aspects like comfort, an engine and gearbox setup that suits the task you want your car to accomplish. The more performance orientated you car becomes, the harder the whole setup becomes which can have a negative affect on long distance driving.
At this stage you might ask 'When is too much power too much for touring?' Personally you can never have too much power. However, excessively powered Caterham 7's often cost more to maintain. An example of this is the Rover K-Series R500 engine with a power output of 230bhp or more. This engine will require engine refreshes which means mini rebuilds in the space of a lesser powered Caterham's normal service schedule. Engine refreshes are not cheap and you should look at the maintenance aspects you might incur with your perceived annual mileage.
Any Caterham with power outputs from 100bhp to 200bhp are more than suitable for touring. Most touring Sevens never need more than 160bhp in reality.
Any Caterham regardless of the power output will perform well on a track. The combination of power output and drivers ability will make all the difference. Setting up the car will also play a big part in your lap times. If you intend to spend most of the Seven owning time flat out around race tracks you will want to look at all aspects of your car from the outset. Caterham produce the Superlight range of cars that are more set up for track activity from the out set. If Racing is what you really want to do, then you will need a Caterham that will fit into an established Caterham Racing Category. Some of the Racing variants are not road legal. So if you plan on driving to the circuit for a trackday you will need it to be road legal or you will need to tow your Caterham on a trailer.
Upgrading cars will always cost extra. Some basic factors to take into consideration are:
Power to Weight: Don't carry anything that you don't need. Light weight components will benefit the car.
Engine: The more power the faster the car.
Gear Box: The number of gears and their ratios will greatly effect the ability to use the engines power.
Set Up: A combination of Suspension, Wheels and Tyres will greatly affect the cars handling.
The ultimate Caterham Trackday variant is the R500 which is a Supercar killer with a 0-60mph of 2.88 seconds and all for about £ 40,000.
New or Used?
If you are buying new you will then need to work out if you are going to build the car yourself or have the factory build it for you. (Note: Some Caterham's now only come as Factory Built).
Buying new will allow you to specify the whole car to your own personal bespoke preferences (which is always a very nice thing to have). However, like any car, once you drive it off the forecourt you will take a hit in depreciation.
Buying second hand can give you a massive saving over the cost of a new car. Once the initial depreciation has occurred, Caterhams purchased second hand will hold their value very well. This aspect is well worth bearing in mind if you only plan on having the car for a year or two.
Should I Build One or Not?
Building a Caterham 7 yourself can be very rewarding in the long term. It will save you a fair amount of money as well. But building one yourself is not for everyone. Having a factory built car will save you some hassle. This is really a choice that only you can make. Being a member of the owners club can help take out a lot of the build hassle with the help of more experienced people.
What should I be doing at this stage before buying a Seven?
Having given serious consideration to what you want to do with your Seven when you get one and the budget you have for buying one. I would say;
•Continue to do your research.
•Join the owners club (The Lotus 7 Club).
•Attend some of the local owners club area meetings to talk to owners and look over their cars.
•Get to know experienced owners and get them to help look over any car you might consider buying with you.
•Don't buy the the first car you see, look at a good number that tick all the right boxes
To Join The Lotus 7 Club
Contact Sam Pearce the Clubs Membership Secretary and she will sort out membership for you.
Attn: Sam Pearce
Tel: 01873 736356
Area meetings are a key point of helping you get the most out of your car. All area meetings follow different formats. Every area meeting has a good bunch of people who have different interests. So if you don't find the first meeting you go to works for you, try another. you might also find it helpful if you contact the area meeting organiser prior to attending. This way they will know that you will be attending and can look out for you. This helps to avoid any awkwardness and he can give some thought to the best people to introduce you to.
For details of your nearest area meeting visit the Lotus 7 Club website here:
The Next Stage To Getting Your Lotus Seven or Caterham 7
This is the hard part for people who are new to Caterhams because for many people Sevens all look the same. When looking through adverts in the for sale sections you will soon notice that each car will list its specification in ways that would be very different to any other normal road car. Gone is Aircon, Airbags, ABS, Stability Control and Cup holders. Instead you will see items like LSD, Wide Track Suspension, Weather Equipment, Carbon-Fibre and Removable Steering wheel. To help guide you through this whole experience I have listed everything that I think that you would be likely to see in any advert.
Key Points When Buying a Caterham 7 - What's What, Pros and Cons:
The are Five types with the Series three being the traditional:
Series 3 Classic (Short)
The oldest chassis that is short of all options, mostly has Xflow engines, Twin Cams and Lower powered Vauxhall engines. You will always know if a car has this chassis, because the hand brake is under the dash on the passenger side.
This is where the handbrake is on the centre tunnel (Where you would expect to find one)
Series 3 Long Cockpit
This came in with the Rover K-series Engines and is now the standard chassis. You have longer leg length over the original chassis. For people of around six foot this is really the chassis to have as a starting point.
This is a wider bodied car and has a slightly longer cockpit of the standard series 3. The plus points are that the car will fit a wider person, has a bigger fuel tank and more luggage space. When touring in the heat of Europe you will also get more air circulating around the cars cockpit.
This is a whole new chassis for high powered engine versions with a funky new dash that breaks from the traditional. I prefer the traditional dash and would suggest the styling is a personal taste.
When Looking to buy a used Caterham you really do need to check all around the Chassis/Space Frame for rust and flaking powder-coating. The powder coating is a black coating that protects the metal work from corroding. Powder coating can start to flake and also get pitted from road chippings that strike the covering. Rust on the Chassis is a problem to sort out. Small areas can be cleaned up and coated with a protected covering. However, more serious cases will result in stripping the car down completely, including the body paneling, sanding the chassis down, treating the metal work and then repowder-coating. This still will not deal with any issues on the inside of the space frame. If you are going to these lengths you might want to just replace the chassis altogether. If you are doing the work yourself the cost might be acceptable for you to do this. However if you are paying someone else to do the work there could be a considerable cost to carry out such a task. So make sure that you crawl all around, over and under the car for a full look before buying.
Older engines range from Ford X-Flow, Lotus Twin Cam, Vauxhall 8-valve, Vauxhall HPC. These engines tend to be heavier than their new replacements. However you should not count them out because they can still give outstanding performance.
The Ford X-Flow engine was one of the first main engine blocks to be used after the Coventry Climax engines which are an extremely rare variant to find.
The X-Flow varies from the early 1498cc with 85bhp to 1700cc with a maximum claimed output of 170bhp.
Lotus Twin Cam
The Lotus Twin was a big step forward and Engines ranged from 1558cc with 115bhp to approx 1700cc with a claimed 170bhp.
I have to admit not knowing much about this engine, but I understand that it was a 1.6 and varied between about 90-120bhp. It mostly appeared in a base model called the 'Classic'.
The HPC engine was a 1998cc engine the started out with 165-175bhp and evolved in to a 218-235bhp specification.
The JPE was a special edition Model with a 1998cc engine throwing out 250bhp.
The 1.4 was the first of the K-series engines installed into a Caterham and to get the best out of them you really need the Caterham 6-Speed close ratio Gear Box.
Roadsport as standard has about 120bhp
Supersport version has hot cams and gives out about 135bhp
This is a good engine and performs very well
Roadsport as standard has about 120bhp
Supersport version has hot cams and gives out about 140bhp
In VHPD specification the engine started at 190bhp and appeared in the SLR version.
In R300 spec it has Roller Barrel Throttle Bodies and gives out 160bhp
The VVC has extra torque with the Variable Valve Control and gives out about 140bhp in the older versions and 156bhp in the later versions
From here you get into the higher powered versions. The greater the power you have, the wider the wheels required on the rear to help you put down the power. For touring this will mean that you will have issues with having a spare wheel. These greater powered versions of a Caterham 7 form part of the Superlitght and CSR Range and they are more developed for the race track. However they will also perform extremely well on the road.
SLR has 190bhp (The VHPD SLR is the forerunner to the R400)*
R400 has 200bhp
R500 has 230bhp and more in some versions
*Note: In some models of the 190bhp SLR spec engine there were issues with the ECU that might need upgrading. One problem that came to light was that when touring on mountain passes the car could suffer from barometric pressure issues. What this means is that when you climb to higher altitudes the ecu can not calculate the correct fuel air mixture. So if you buy an SLR spec'ed car and plan on touring with it, it would be well worth checking the ecu, engine and exhaust spec with Caterham Cars to see if you might suffer from these issues.
Ford Sigma Engines
The replacement engine for the K-series in Roadsport cars is the 1.6 Ford Sigma which tends to come in 125bhp or 150bhp. I have not personally driven any Caterhams with a Sigma engine, but I understand that the extra benefit from increased 150BHP is only really felt during the upper end of the rev range.
Ford Duratec Engines
These engines tend have a lot more power and torque and have replaced the 1.8 Rover K-series engines.
2.0 Duratec R300 has 175bhp
2.0 Duratec R400 has 210bhp
2.0 Duratec R500 has 263bhp
2.3 Cosworth Duratec CSR200 has 200bhp
2.3 Cosworth Duratec CSR260 has 260bhp
A number of motorbike engines have also been installed into Caterhams. The most popular are the Blackbird and the Fireblade engines. These make great track focused cars with high rev ranges. They tend not to be very good for touring due to the power to weight ratio and the need to use the extended rev range. An extra passenger and/or luggage will have a serious effect on their performance.
While I have tried to cover most of the popular engines, I am aware that there are some that I have not listed like: BDR, Cosworth and Zetec. In many cases they are variants of the main engine choices or used in low volumes.
For the cars you will be looking at there are two main options:
5 Speed: Good for touring, has a higher final gear which drops the revs when sitting on motorways.
6 Speed: This is a close ratio box. You will be changing gear quicker and it will propel the car faster. But the car will sit at slightly higher rev's when cruising. The 6 speed box is an upgrade on Roadsport cars and the 6 Speed is more commonly seen is the Superlight cars.
Note: Older cars might have 4x speed gear boxes and for extreme performance it is possible to get close ratio sequential gear boxes and paddle shift control for added performance.
Some engines suit different gear boxes for different reasons.
For those is search of yet more performance and greater budgets you can also have sequential gear boxes and paddle-shift gears. Quaife Engineering would be a good place to start when looking for the ultimate gearbox set up. www.quaife.co.uk
Dry Sump System:
Dry Sump Systems are often found on Race Cars and Extreme Performance variants. The reason for fitting a Dry Sump is to protect the engine under extreme conditions. These conditions could be High G Cornering on a race track for long periods. When cornering oil can be forced to one side of the engine and causing starvation.
Alternatively known as an oil/air separator. Its job is to remove air bubbles that are generated in the engine as a natural "feature" of the way the engine is designed and installed in a 7. The Apollo is a tall, thin aluminium tank. The oil flow enters under pressure from the pump and swirls around the tank, exiting at the bottom. As the oil swirls, the air bubbles rise up the centre of the tank and exit through a restricted breather, venting to the cam cover. The return pipe feeds de-aerated oil to the filter and subsequently to the oil galleries in the engine. The tank adds approximately 2l to the oil system and as such can help marginally with lower oil pressure under cornering, but this is not its main purpose and results vary from one installation to the next, some people noticing no difference! What it does mean is that whatever oil reaches the engine is proper oil, and not a frothy mix of oil and water.
Additional Cooling Radiators:
Upgraded rads are available in many guises, up to the triple pass aluminium radiators as used on race cars. These are also thick enough to act as a nice bit of crash protection!
The rear drive set-up on older Sevens originally had a Ford Live Axle, this was a single ridged axle where a movement on a wheel on one side of the car would have an effect on the wheel on the other side of the car.
The De Dion set up gives greater performance handling because each side works more independently. So a wheel on on side of the car hitting a bump or pothole has less effect on the wheel and traction on the other side of the car. To get the ultimate set up you could also add a Limited Slip Differential (LSD).
Limited Slip Differential (LSD):
Most Roadsport/Supersport Caterhams come with a standard diff, but many Superlights generally come with LSD. Having a LSD will allow a Caterham to corner tightly and drift on long sweeping bends without losing traction so easily. On the Road you will get very little benefit from a LSD unless you are on tight hairpin bends.
Standard: Good in standard form
Wide Track & Adjustable: This has a slightly wider footprint at the front which aids turning in when cornering. The adjustable shocks allows you adjust the ride height, rake (angle of the car) and the corner weights (Which allows you to balance the cars weight distribution). Setting up the car with this system greatly improves the cars handling over the standard set up.
Inboard: This is only on some of the high powered cars and all the key working parts of the suspension is hidden in side the cars main bodywork.
The standard brakes are fine for touring, although they are a bit on and off. These can be greatly improved with some simple upgrades like fluid, pad choices and discs. The next step would be AP Racing 4x Pot Calipers on the front and a bigger AP master cylinder will transform your braking ability. A Brake Bias Value will allow you to control the ratio of brake pressure front to rear. AP brakes are the Caterham Approved upgrade bit there are other third part calipers what will also work just as well.
There is a wide range of tyres available and a decent set of tyres on your Caterham will make a massive difference. Getting the right balance for your 7 and the activities you plan to do with them is very important. The key thing to remember is that tyres range from hard to soft. The soft ones have far greater levels of grip than the hard tyres, but wear out far quicker.
The harder the tyres the longer they will last to the point you might never wear them out on a light weight car. The down side is that the handling and cornering will be greatly affected.
The softer the tyres the greater the grip which will give you outstanding handling and cornering ability. Some of the softer tyres are extreme enough to look like racing slicks with a few grooves cut into them to make them road legal. This type of tyre will give stunning levels of grip in the dry, but suffers greatly in the wet. (Avon ACB10's, CR500's Yoko 32r's and Yoko 48's fall into this category) The other downside is that these super soft tyres wear out very quickly and if driven enthusiastically might only last for 3000 miles.
A good all round road tyre is a Yokohama 21 which has very good road handling in both dry and wet conditions. You should also get about 12,000 miles or more to a set. Another very good performance road tyre that handles very well in both the dry and the wet is the Avon CR500. You should get between 4,000 and 6,000 miles to a set on the road. Driving on a race track will reduce their life expectancy.
There are two main options:
Fixed: Which is Standard and can make entry to the cockpit more difficult for the taller or longer legged person.
Removable: A very good basic upgrade for a number of reasons. The first one being that people who are taller or have longer legs can remove the steering wheel and gain entry much easier. The second main reason for having a removable steering wheel is for security. You can remove the steering wheel to help prevent the car from being stolen. A good tip is to get a bike lock to secure it into the boot area to prevent it from being taken as a souvenir when parked up. You also then don't need to carry it around with you.
There are two choices of steering racks. Standard Steering Rack 8% and the Quick Rack 22%. The Quick Rack takes less turns of the Steering Wheel to turn the car into the corner where as the Standard Rack will take more turns to go from lock to lock. For track use the Quick Rack would be the best option. Whereas the Standard Rack might be better for touring. The steering would feel lighter when stationary. The Standard Rack also has more turning range than the Quick Rack which will come in handy when on tight hairpin bends of the sort you find on mountain passes. Depending on what version of Caterham you have could alter what steering rack would be best. Engine weight can also have an effect on what is the better option to have.
Ignition Cut Off Switch:
An Ignition Cut Off Switch is a switch with a red turn key on the outside of the car often used in competition. it allows marshalls to turn your engine off in the event of an accident. Caterham owners often like the idea of this as an extra security device because it instantly disables the battery. There is a downside to this, the red key can easily be stolen if left in while parked, so it is well worth having a spare key with you or hidden somewhere on the car.
Often the most over looked item when buying a car because it does not do anything until it is too late. There are four options:
Standard Roll Bar: Unless you are a short person I would question anyone having one. Although some of the latest versions are an improvement over previous versions.
FIA Roll Bar: This offers far greater protection over the standard roll bar and is an upgrade that I would very seriously recommend to any owner. The roll bar is taller, thicker, has cross sections and leans forward, offering much greater protection in the event of an accident.
Extended FIA: This is the same as the standard FIA roll bar, except for it is extended in height and offers better protection for taller people. It should be noted that the extended FIA roll bar will require a different hood because it is too tall for the standard hood.
Full Roll Cage: The ultimate in protection in the unfortunate event of an incident. But having a roll cage for touring could be a lot of hassle. It is far more difficult to access and exit the car. When racing you would be wearing a helmet which will also help protect your head from an impact. When driving a Caterham without a helmet you could run the risk of banging your head on the cage in a serious impact. Not wearing a helmet could question the extra protection a cage gives in these circumstances.
For a good graphic reason why you should give serious consideration to which roll bar setup you should invest in, please visit this page:
There are different options to chose from:
3x Point Standard Inertia: As found in all modern cars. Easy and quick to use.
4x Point Harness: Standard harness which is an upgrade that I would seriously suggest you consider having. The reason for this is it is easy to get out of in the event of an accident. Other people can also release you very quickly. Should you unfortunately end up involved in an incident where your roll bar comes into play, a 4x point harness will (if adjusted correctly) hold you tightly into the car helping to protect you.
5x Point Harness: This is the same a 4x point harness except it has an extra strap that comes up between your legs. In race conditions you can also have arm straps which will help to prevent your arms from flying out of the cockpit in the event of an incident.
Standard Cloth: I would advise against these because they get dirty easily and because if it rains they take ages to dry out.
Leather/Leather Effect Touring Seats: These I would recommend because they are comfortable and hard wearing.
Tillet Race Seats: These are solid all in one light weight race seats. Some people find them very comfortable, others like me don't because of my hip size.
Carbon-Fibre Race Seats: Just like the Tillets but even lighter in weight. Unless you are after R500 spec, I think these are excessive IMHO
Spare Wheel or Not:
Roadsport and most road cars have a spare wheel carrier on the back of the car. The Superlight range don't have spare wheel carriers. The reason for this is because the Superlight range are cutting down the weight to enhance the power to weight ratio. If you plan on touring I would seriously suggest that you have a spare wheel carrier because when you are halfway across Europe and you have a tyre problem, you could be along way from getting a spare. There may also be issues with availability of your tyre.
It should be noted that with Caterhams of 190bhp and more (The Superlight range), the rear wheels are wider than the front to assist them with getting the power down. As such it is pointless having having a spare wheel and you can only rely on Tyre Weld to get you out of a tight spot in the event of a puncture.
Superlight cars can have a spare wheel holder attaching but there is not a bar on the chassis for the locking rod locking device to bolt on to. The Locking rod will bolt straight on to the body panel.
There are two types of front wheel Arches, Classic Clam Shells and Cycle Wheel Arches
Classic Clam Shell Wheel Arches: These give that car a real classic feel to drive and should not be ruled out as an option.
Cycle Wheel Arches: These just cover the front wheel and owners tend to go for the more modern cycle wheel arches because for performance driving, they help you to see what is happening when cornering quickly and aiding you place the wheel as close to the apex of a corner.
Fibre-Glass or Carbon-Fibre:
Caterham's come as standard with Glass-Fibre Nose Cone and Wheel Arches. However, you can select a number of upgrades in Carbon-Fibre. The standard item to swap to Carbon-Fibre is the Nose Cone, Wheel Arches and Dash Board. The main reason for doing so is to reduce the weight of the car. If you want to go further in increasing the power to weight aspect there are many other items from third party companies that you can swap to Carbon-Fibre as well. These range from Steering Wheels, Body Panels, Aero Screens, Seats, Stone Guards and Aero Foils.
This is a personal choice, but you should give some considerable thought to the colour of your car. Remember that you are in a quick, low sports car and others might have difficulty in spotting you. When approaching roundabouts that have crash barriers you will be obscured from other peoples view. Having a bright or lightly coloured car could make a lot of difference to your safety.
The key thing for touring is if the weather changes you have some protection while driving or if the car is parked up.
The standard equipment is Side Screens and a Hood. The side screens offer great protection from wind buffering and mount on to the windscreen. They also help to form an integral part of the hood system. The hood attaches with poppers to the windscreen and is supported by a hood frame that arises from under the boot cover. The remaining part of the hood attaches to the rear and side of the car with more poppers. The rear window can be zipped open for increased ventilation.
This is a cover that protects the cockpit from the weather when parked up. It attaches from the front of the dash to just behind the seats. They also often have a zip so that you can cover one side of the cockpit only. A Tonneau cover is very quick to fit and takes a fraction of the time to fit compared to a full hood.
Half Hoods: (By Jill Judd at Soft Bits for Sevens - http://www.softbitsforsevens.co.uk/ )
These are a great accessory because they are quicker to fit than a full hood. They also offer protection from inclement weather and from the heat of a very hot day. Note: You will need to specify your car chassis type and roll bar configuration to get the correct bag for your car.
Windscreen or Areoscreen?
If you plan on touring and road use, then it is advised that you have a Windcscreen. You will also need a windscreen to attach the weather equipment to the car. Aeroscreens are great on track because they cut down the wind resistance of a windscreen on a Caterham considerably. However I would always recommend a windscreen for road use. The reason for this is because they help protect you from other items that can be thrown up from other road users. If you are going to use Aeroscreens on the public highway I would seriously recommend wearing a helmet. A good friend of mine might not have been here today if the Caterham windscreen didn't catch a half brick that was thrown up by a lorry that was in front of him. Aeroscreens are used to deflect the wind upwards when you remove the windscreen.
For touring in a Seven you will be surprised what what you can pack into a Caterham. Apart from the boot space where two equally sized snug fitting holdall bags are easy to stow away and retrieve. There is also space that can be used behind the drivers seat as long as the passenger does not need all the leg room.
Luggage Systems: There are other options for stowing luggage: Soft Bits for Sevens does a luggage system that sits on top of the boot cover and around the roll bar. Note: You will need to specify your car chassis type and roll bar configuration to get the correct bag for your car .
Spare Wheel Bags: These fit into the spare wheel and is very good for storing items that you don't always need (eg Spare Parts and Tools). Note: You will need to specify your wheel size, type and attachment configuration (Single or V-Bar) to get the correct bag for your car. The Bag is made by Stuart Golding at Warwickshire 7s.
I hope that you have found this information helpful and in getting your head around all things Caterham. If you find anything that I have not covered and you would like to see it added please feel free to contact the website manager from our Contact Us Page.
Best of luck in your search for a sports car.
For Further Advice on Touring please visit: http://www.warwickshire7s.co.uk/touring-advice.html
Note: This article is designed as advice only and Warwickshire 7s takes no legal responsiblity for its content.
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